Lee Ho Fook, Melbourne: Restaurant review

A word of warning for the uninitiated: be careful with the snacks. So good (and rich) are owner-chef Victor Liong’s appetisers – perhaps a choux pastry “bao” filled with a gorgeously textured mushroom char siu or prawn toast blinged with sea urchin and accompanied by a lush, salted egg yolk butter – that it’s easy to make the rookie error of filling up before you reach the larger dishes. You’ll want your tastebuds fully engaged for Lee Ho Fook’s scintillating maltose-glazed Peking duck and the disarming take on sweet and sour pork, complete with a surprisingly successful coating of pineapple and strawberry sauce. Whether you choose to eat in the kitchen-adjacent downstairs area or up in the more formal dining room, the service doesn’t miss a trick. Neither does the wine list, a well-priced mostly Aussie affair that also includes a page of wine from China. All in all, a smart, witty, 21st-century take on Aussie-Chinese.

Price Guide

$$$

Bookings

Recommended

Wheelchair Access

Opening Hours

Dinner Mon-Sat

The Gourmet Traveller Team

Gourmet Traveller is Australia’s trusted authority on food, travel and luxury lifestyle, bringing the latest news and trends to life through quality journalism, enticing recipes and evocative photography. For more than 55 years, it has been inspiring and informing Australians with the best in cooking, dining, travelling and shopping. Our critics bring the expertise of years of critical eating, drinking and writing to the table. Plus, as the country’s leading title in the luxury sector, Gourmet Traveller works closely with Australia’s leaders in the travel and hospitality industries to give our readers exclusive access. The Gourmet Traveller legacy is one of trust, prestige and relevance.

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