Hidden treasures of Corsica: Where to stay and what to do in Corsica
Perched dramatically above the Tyrrhenian Sea, Bonifacio in southern Corsica blends craggy cliffs, medieval history and a bustling harbour, as well as quiet luxury and exceptional cuisine, writes KATHRYN MADDEN.
Crystal-clear water and dramatic cliffs frame the island of Bonifacio, Corsica.
Thibaut Modelia
“The world is beautiful if you know how to look at it.” My tour guide Lola is reciting a Corsican proverb as we stand on the edge of a granite peak and peer out at the jewel-blue Tyrrhenian Sea. Honeyed-stone homes hang dramatically over the cliff’s edge, swallowed in scale by the ocean below, and I can’t help but wonder if the old adage has its limitations. “U mondu he bellu basta a sapellu piglia” suggests we simply open our eyes wider to appreciate the beauty all around, when clearly the world in these parts would appear arresting even through a lazy squint.
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The honeyed-stone homes of Corsica
We’re in Bonifacio, an ancient fortress town on the French island of Corsica, a landmass so ravishing the ancient Greeks named it Kalliste, “the fairest one”, and countless empires battled to claim it as their own. Bonifacio is the island’s oldest and most southerly town, and, with its medieval citadel set 70 metres above the sea and a marina bobbing with yachts below, it’s widely considered the most beautiful, too. We wind up cobblestone streets and vertiginous staircases that open onto sun-bleached squares, then through bustling alleys to lookout points where we gaze back in time. “Bonifacio’s strategic location on maritime trade routes made it a prime target for pirates,” explains Lola, gesturing out at the panorama. “But it’s notoriously treacherous to navigate and the sea floor is scattered with wreckage. According to legend, pirate treasure is still buried in the caves. This place is full of secrets.”
Corsica is enigmatic in more ways than one.The fourth largest island in the Mediterranean, it combines dramatic mountains, which cover two-thirds of the terrain, with sandy shores. It’s closer to mainland Italy than its mother country, France, and just 25 minutes by boat from Sardinia. Ruled over time by the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Genoese, Pisans and French, modern Corsica is a mash-up and melting pot of influences: Genoese architecture, Pisan-adjacent dialects, Italian joy and a fierce pride inherited from the French, who took control of the region in 1768.
It’s a combination that makes it distinctly its own thing, with a spirit of resistance and autonomy that’s summed up by my taxi driver as we pull out of Figari-Sud Corse, one of the island’s four international airports. “I’m Corsican, not French.”
It’s June, so the roads aren’t yet jammed, but in July and August they’ll ground to a standstill as the population swells from around 350,000 to two million. Most visitors come from mainland France for their annual summer jaunt, with travellers from further afield making up a small minority. This is curious, given the magnetic pull of the south of France – and geographically speaking, Corsica is the true south of France, with crystal-clear waters, white-sand beaches and a glorious Mediterranean climate. But it’s also rugged around the edges, void of recognisable hotel chains and a little trickier to access, demanding an extra flight or boat trip, meaning it remains something of a hidden treasure. Like the buried pirate loot.
We curve up jagged peaks, through seas of shrubland known as maquis, and down rocky, rural roads. “Corsica produces one per cent of French wine,” says my driver as he tackles a gnarly bend with a rally-driver’s swerve. “Based on the roads we created, you can tell we drink a lot of it.”
Step back in time at hotel U Capu Biancu, Bonifacio
The beauty of Corsica doesn’t always come easy, it would seem. Sometimes you have to take a primitive route, or trek up steep terrain, to behold the most exquisite vista. But it appears in sharp focus as we arrive at hotel U Capu Biancu, a rustically luxe retreat on the secluded bay of Sant’Amanza, 10 kilometres from Bonifacio.
Driftwood daybeds are positioned to catch the sun; an alfresco bar serves clementine and myrtle liqueurs made by the in-house sommelier, Vanessa Maloyer; a hand-scrawled sign leads down to a private beach backed by salt-baked cliffs, where boats pull up at the jetty and day-trippers disembark for lunch. You could be at a beach club in Mykonos or Ibiza, albeit without the throngs or thrumming beats.
Soak in breakfast views of craggy cliffs and jewel-blue water
Owned and operated for more than 30 years by the local Limongi family, the hotel has a loyal, return guest base and relies nearly entirely on word of mouth. Recently, they opened sister property U Mulinu, a private villa built on the remains of a 13th-century grain mill on a Bonifacio clifftop.
At U Capu Biancu, the 39 rooms and suites are designed like kitschy beach shacks with exposed beams, dry-stone walls and, if you’re lucky, a deck that captures the breathtaking red blaze at sunrise. Wild lavender and rosemary perfume the air, and the grounds are dotted with hammocks and cabanas framed by olive trees and flowering oleander bushes. It’s the kind of place you could fly and flop, but the pull to explore outside is strong. Renting a car is recommended; taxis are pricey and scarce here, especially in summer, and driving is the best way to discover the island if you’re game for the winding roads. For day trips, head to the blissful beaches of Palombaggia and Tamaricciu, then visit the old town of Porto-Vecchio for chic boutiques and pastel-hued gelaterias. Take a seat on a terrasse and order cannelloni stuffed with brocciu, Corsica’s creamy, ricotta-like “national” cheese, and a Capo Spritz, made from fortified local Cap Corse wine.
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Dusk from the cobblestoned terrace of hotel U Capu Biancu
It was Corsica’s prodigal son Napoleon Bonaparte, born in the capital of Ajaccio in 1769, who saw the island’s potential for viticulture and encouraged the planting of grapes. At U Capu Biancu, sommelier Maloyer has a wine cave stocked with more than 6000 bottles, 85 per cent of which are Corsican. Once a week, she hosts a mystery dinner in the cellar where guests sip from black wine glasses, then are blindfolded as they’re guided through a sensory tasting menu.
The air of mystery carries through to a lazy lunch at the main restaurant, where the mood is breezy and bohemian and the blue sea shimmers from every vantage point. Chef Gadio El Hadji, who’s helmed the kitchen for three decades, serves up artfully crafted fare: a terrine of veggies plucked from the permaculture garden, velvety squid ink linguine worth the inevitable black-stained lips, and for dessert, his “secret” tarte Tatin. A disc of white chocolate appears in front of me, then thick caramel sauce is poured on top, melting the chocolate to reveal… well, it’s a secret. And Corsica is renowned for those.
But the secret of the island itself, this dazzling rough diamond in the Mediterranean Sea? That will be harder to keep.
With four airports, Corsica is well connected, with direct flights available from France and other European capitals. Ferries operate from Toulon, Nice, Marseille and Sardinia. Expect prices in line with the south of France; the island’s remote location drives up travel and food costs, and accommodation leans towards boutique rather than budget.
The road less travelled
Reach Corsica via the road less travelled. Experience all-inclusive, ultra-luxury with APT Luxury Travel and Seabourn on an exclusive small ship cruise. Discover breathtaking islands, iconic landmarks, rich history and local cuisine on APT’s fifteen-day Mediterranean Wonders.
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